1000 miles

Utah is astonishingly beautiful. I understand how people can get totally religious here – and they do. This is mormon land. I have stayed with a few of them – VERY nice and friendly and helpful people. They’ll feed you, pray for you and give you gifts. I had a mormon gospel book with many wise words in it from one of them and some pepper spray from the other. So you feel very much looked after. But I haven’t only met and stayed with mormons, I have also spent some time with a Buddhist munk who right now takes some time off the monestary and cycles across the country. Yes, we did some yoga together as we were waiting for the sun to rise. And a couple of nights ago I stayed at the same place as a whole bunch of hot air balloon pilots. (Where are all these fun folks when I am sitting in my couch at home, watching Friends?)

I have had music for most of the time lately which has been good, because even if my body is a bit tired, it makes me feel mentally unbreakable. I am not, of course, but it is a good feeling.

I know I have been complaining. That is because this trip really costs maybe not so much blood, but definitely large quantities of sweat and tears. I cry every day: First of fear for what people warn me about – it is going to be SO steep and there will be SO much traffic (here?? I don’t think so.) and there are absolutely NO shoulders so it is VERY dangerous for you and it is going to be HORRIBLE – and then I cry of relief when it turns out it wasn’t so bad after all. I would also spontaniously start crying because the scenery is just so beautiful or when I see a green summit sign after hours of climbing.



However, I don’t mind this anymore. Everything has become easier to accept and deal with after I had a little talk with myself in Cedar City and reminded myself that these challenging circumstances actually are a big part of the reason for me choosing to be here doing this. So now I just let myself sweat and cry. As long as I make the miles I need to every day, I am happy with myself and my day when I set camp at night.



I will finish this posting with a quote of Renata Chlumska, who cycled and kayakked around the US a few years ago:

“There will be good days, and then there will be bad days, but then there will be good days again…”

Life can be so simple.

Up's and down's

This trip sure comes with many ups and downs, and I am not only referring to the summits, but also mood swings. Unexpected shadow or a thumbs up from a passing driver can make me so extraordinary happy, but just as quickly I find myself so terribly tired of the whole thing (although I must say that I have NEVER even thought about giving up).

There has been bike problems (brakes and rear wheel) which has made it risky going down hill at high speed and this has slowed me down. The heat is killing me. It has been more than 100 degrees lately. I cannot think when it is that warm. I have a rash all over my arms and legs (I thought bug bites, but now I am thinking from the sun). And my lips have been swollen and painful for days since I once - once! - forgot to put sunscreen on them. And head winds - always those head winds!

I miss John. I could sure use some company, and he was such good company. But would I be good company myself?

Peggy is right - keeping the spirit up is one of the most important things while on a project like this, so now that I am having a day off in Cedar City (Yes, I am now in UTAH), I will try to do whatever I can to get that spirit up again!

MUSIC always helps, so I will make sure today that I get a second music device to bring tomorrow when I start doing the second portion of the desert (there are not many opportunities to charge anything here, so you would have music one day and then be without for a day or two...).

If you have any one number in particular that helps you run that last mile or do another ten sit ups - could you please send it to me? (So, not a whole album, just that one magic song that makes you go a little bit further... - because I always need to go a little bit further...)

500 miles

So I am over the first 500 miles, and a couple of days in to the desert. But is this really a desert? My first day started out with a bit of chilly wind and some hailing - I had to wear jacket and gloves! During my first night it was freezing cold - 33 degrees Fahrenheit (which my sleeping bag isn't really made for, so again: jacket and gloves).

Well, you just never know what to expect.

I wanted to post some pictures from the road, but this hotel computer is just too old to know how to read my camera files. I will post these pictures when I get to Cedar City, which will hopefully be in four days.

Until then: Write many comments! I LOVE to read them! I have understood that summer in Sweden is, well, a bit dissappointing for most of you and that there is some football thing going on that keeps Malin busy. But what are the rest of you doing? Tell me! Also: I think you should help me come up with a cool nick name for my bike. "The Green Machine" is already taken by Peggy in Davis, so we need something else. Something Swedish or Dutch perhaps?

OK so here are the desert pics:

Las Vegas and Grand Canyon

When I came to Fallon, I was offered a ride to Vegas and thereby also an opportunity to go to Grand Canyon, and so I decided to postpone the planned bicycling through the desert.

Well, I kind of expected that no Oh!s nor Ah!s would escape my mouth in Vegas even though there sure is lots to see - it's just not my thing.

More surprisingly, I wasn't too impressed by the Grand Canyon either. Was it too touristic maybe? Or was it just the heat (115 F)? Could be also that the expectations might have been just too high. It is, after all, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and then you really expect to be amazed. Not that it wasn't a nice excursion - it was! - but among those wonders, I think I prefer the Northern lights.

However, nature here is VERY impressive. It seems so never ending.

Anyway - here are some pictures. The Skywalk on the last picture was really scary for a person afraid of heights as myself. You'd walk above the Grand Canyon on a glass floor. Even though I read that the floor could support the weight of 70 fully loaded 747 passanger airlines, I still stepped out on that glass very carefully...










...and NOW I am off to the desert. Keep your fingers crossed for me. This is actually a little bit scary... (Long milages without services, no water, lots of summits to climb and then of course the unforgiving sun...)

Over the Sierras and in to Nevada

The two day climb was a drag and a bore, but there were highlights. Parts of California actually looks like Lapland, only more grand. Up on the mountain there was snow and the air was fresh. I could breath again.


However, the highlights more often involves the people I meet, generally very friendly and hospitable. I have been really well received, everywhere.

But there are contrasts when it comes to the American Hospitality.

On the one hand, they might well come up to you and offer you any kind of help that you seem to need or might want. But on the other hand, they would also put up barbed wired fences and signs saying

"My dog can make it to this fence in 2.8 seconds. Can you?"

(I don't know and I don't think I'll care to try)

Anyways, I have now reached Carson City and my CS host Mikes' place (VERY friendly guy who doesn't even lock his door). Laundry is done and I am about to go and do some shopping. Tomorrow I am off to Fallon, and then it is time to hit the desert.

Warm up is over

I have just finished the first 150 miles that the Adventure Cycling Association refers to as the warm up before the first big climb, but I must say it hasn't been easy. The heat is brutal.

We decided to get going really early today. We left our host (fantastic host nr 5) and cycled out of the so called gated community he lived in - I have always wanted to see one of those! It was very clean and very pretty - at 5.15 am and we might continue for a bit later on tonight.

Tomorrow I'll start trying to get over the Sierras. The bike I bought a couple of days ago seems strong enough. I wish I was strong too.

On the road

First day of proper biking is behind me. Left fantastic host nr 2 around 10 am. Misread map, took wrong turn, ended up on freeway, got escorted by a high way patrol officer (apparently you are not supposed to bike on the freeway) had a mac donalds burger (from the drive thru, of course), ran out of water twice (it is SO hot!!!!), met another bicyclist who is also going across the country, stayed with his hosts from warmshowers (fantastic hosts nr 3 and 4) and today I just had a little credit card problem but it seems to work now.

OK, off we go.

The San Francisco Cyclery

San Francisco Cyclery.






Heather worked on my Surly until it felt custom made...






...and then John helped me out with some final, yet not unimportant details, such as changing the tyres to Marathon Schwalbe Plus (after last years trip I wouldn't use anything else).

I'm in.

During my 3 hour stopover at Schiphol, I had coffee with Vicky and when we parted I said she could expect me in Amsterdam again the following day. I actually thought I'd be sent back. But I wasn't.

At the customers, some eleven hours later, they showed great interest in my working situation, my financial situation and my trip, but they never let me show my neatly organized folder with proof of absolutely everything. The only thing they wanted to look at was my return ticket. I was actually a little disappointed.

Within 45 minutes from having landed, I could meet up with Edie, my first fantastic host during this trip. She picked me up by car, we dropped my huge and heavy bag at her place and then went to arrange things for my bike. I will go and get it later on this afternoon.

One day to go

...and my next message will be from the States.

At least, that is what I am hoping for. I'm getting a little bit nervous about the customs as I have heard stories about them being very strict: Getting through just never seems to go smoothly. Well, unless you are on a "normal" one week holiday staying at a hotel. So yesterday I found myself making plans for what to do if rejected: Going to Vicky's in Amsterdam, buying a bike there and then cycle to Madrid to visit Pablo. Not a bad plan B at all I would say.

We'll see. In thirty something hours I will know!